KINSALE

Kinsale lies close to the mouth of the River Bandon with the town wrapping itself around a natural harbour. From here it backs up the steep slopes on either side and presents a more continental flavour than possible anywhere else in Ireland. In parts there are labyrinths of small streets that were never made for vehicles and the best (if not the only) way to properly enjoy this attractive little town is on foot (the Tourist Information Office, Emmet Street has details of the "Kinsale Trail" pedestrian tour, free of charge.)

The town has a lovely selection of small stores but before long will soon appreciate what the town if famous for, if you hadn't already heard - food. The number of restaurants in the town outnumber the pubs, and that is a record for anywhere in Ireland although even the pubs have an excellent reputation for food and snacks. Most of the restaurants are bistro in atmosphere and presentation, all have different and interesting names and the fact that each October heralds a Gourmet Festival will not surprise anyone who has indulged in some of the excellent menus. A number have formed a Good Food Circle providing a variety of choice.

Past Summer Cove to the east is Charles Fort which was a substantial fortress built by the English in 1677 to fortify Kinsale. It largely remains intact and had a garrison up until 1922. (Open from mid - April to mid - Ocotober; admission charge - £2).

On the other side of the harbour is the mariner which in the summer attracts vessels from all over Europe and supports the town's continental and maritime flavour. August sees the Kinsale Regatta which is well known throughout the yachting world.

In the middle of the bay is a small peninsula (Castlepark) that takes its name from the remains of an old castle, (later replaced by James Fort). This island serves well to protect the harbour and access is by the large bridge over the Bandon estuary a mile west of the town. There are two golf courses (Farrengalway - 18 and Ringinane - 9) close to the town.

Where the small peninsula joins the land is the Dock bar, always a good spot for oysters and close by a small path winds the 100 yards past little bungalows to the small sandy bay on the seaward side. Further along the peninsula is James Fort (17th c.) 5k from Kinsale, completed in 1607 facing Charles Fort directly across the bay.

The western side of the town is the older side with O'Connell Street from which St John's Hill turns off and rises steeply into The Mall with its gracious three storey houses, some with turret windows, leading up to the Alms Houses. Built in 1682 as a haven for destitute old people and restored in 1966 they comprise of houses on three sides of a square garden. The central house doorway is a quoted example of the use of early red brick in Ireland. Their residents could also take comfort from the fact that they had one of the best views of the town and harbour.

Just below is the Bowling Green which has its roots in the military etablishment of the mid - 1700's, beside it is the Municipal Hall now containing the District Council but in those days was an officers's club.

There is much history to Kinsale and most of it associated with the sea. Its first royal charter was given by Edward III in 1333. A significant date was 1601 with the Battle of Kinsale when the Irish forces of the O'Neills and O'Donnells (the indigenous aristocracy), supported by Spanish forces lost to the English and heralded the end of the Irish nobility's influence in their country.

Later in 1689 the French - supported James II landed at Kinsale to begin his unsuccessful campaign to regain the English throne. Kinsale was also the port of his departure after his defeat in 1690.

In the Napoleonic wars French prisoners were held in Desmond Castle (16th c.) off Cork Street, which had been built some 180 years earlier as a Custom House and its history includes a dwelling, ammunition store, prison and now a heritage site with plans for a wine museum, reflecting the varied continental links over the centuries.

The Courthouse in Market Square was probably built about the same time as Desmond Castle and houses the Kinsale Regional Museum. One hundred years after it was constructed the facade was rebuilt with a distinct Flemish style. The adjacent courthouse attracted world interest when the official inquest into the loss of the Lusitania was held there in 1915.

Ten miles south of the town is the Old Head of Kinsale noted mainly for its close proximity to the location of the Lusitania disaster.